hi welcome to how to repair this article is on a washing machine that is not spinning or turning it’s manufactured by beko that can be used for all the brands listed below. right the first thing we’re going to do is turn the machine on to a spin cycle and see if we’ve got any motor action at all sometimes you will end up with an error code appearing on the front to the machine which will tell you that you have a motor to fault but on other occasions it just stops working. now you can hear the pump running on this machine but we have no sound from the motor and the drums not rotating. now if you could hear the motor trying to spin and the drum was not turning then there was a possibility that it was a fault with the belt.
in other words the belt may have come off, but one of the first things you want to do is empty the actual filter to make sure there is no debery in the pub on most modern washing machines they will never going to spin if there was water still in the drum.
it’s a protection system to actually stop the machine spinning with water in it. as you can well imagine the mess it would make if you tried to spin the clothes with a full load water in there so if you clothes are coming out wringing wet and there’s still a bitter water in the drum it might not be a motor fault it might be just a simple blockage in the system this can either be on the pump area and sometimes this can be on where the waste hose is fitted some people have their waste hoses attached to the sink units on this can also be a common problem.
but we know this is all clear so we’re going to move the back of the machine I’m going to take the motor of to inspect the first thing you should do is disconnect the appliance from the electricity supply. while I’m taking this motor of there are links on the left hand side in the article, and these will take you through to the correct tutorial area, or the correct part you need.
for mobile users you will find this in the description below the article.
the top link is to the carbon brushes for beko washing machines you will need your full model number to obtain the correct parts! you’ll find this inside your door area or sometimes on the back the machine.
there are two links at the bottom left-hand side which are tutorials and FAQ’s will take you through to the beko washing machine section where all the tutorials for all repair’s can be found and you can get detailed information on error codes and self-diagnostic mode of these machines please remember to subscribe to our website: whether its website or Facebook or Google+ as that’s what keeps us going and able to make these free articles for you and if we do save you lots of money on these repairs please remember you can always buy me a beer using the buy me a beer button. now we’ve actually got the motor fun bolts released we’re just going to do the back ones I can’t emphasize enough here having like tools for the job to help. this extension of which is also flexible does allow me to get through from the back of the machine to the back bolts if you haven’t got one of these and you only have a torx spanner then you’re going to have to tilt the machine over at a 45 degree angle and do it manually.
it could take quite a bit of time as an tucked in right against the drum. now they’re all the bolts have been removed we need to prise the motor slightly backwards just to get it loose on the Lugs before the removing, now of course you’re working in your house so you don’t have the joy of the testbench so you will need to lean machine over at a 45 degree angle to remove the motor. now there is four screws holding these carbon brushes in place but the first thing I want to explain to you is a bit about the carbon brushes themselves. carbon brushes are sliding contacts used to transmit electrical current from a static to a rotating part in the motor called a commutator the main reason for the angle is good surface area and allow the carbon brush to work without overheating this is why there fitted at a slight angle a commutator has segments you can see here you need to inspect the commutative for any raised lugs in other words if one of these a higher than the other then it would chew away at the bushes and create excess wear I will explain you this later in the article but the first thing we need to do is remove the carbon brushes from the motor. beko actually fitted a couple have different types of carbon brush to the motors I will explain the difference on the holders but it’s a good idea to always your fault model number check against the brushes that your model number is listed before ordering as they have fitted a couple of types but you could see this carbon brush was completely worn away and here’s the new one now when they’re delivered they come like this in their holder and people do not realize that they have a transit clip which you need to prise up and once you prised it up you need to make sure that the carbon brush goes in and out freely before fitting the carbon brush otherwise you will have a problem but you could see the difference between the old and the new the old completely worn away and this wasn’t the bad carbon this is actually the carbon still got a little bit life left in it. now the difference between the two types types of holders that they fitted is the Lugs now the one on the light outside which I’ve already loaded in because I didn’t have the right ones in stock to explain you on this article but the only difference is the actual locating Lugs the Actual inner part to the brush the metal casing and the brush itself are usually the same and you can swap holders if you do order the long ones ever from wherever you order them you can actually split the bush casing and then swap over the bushes but the most important thing is as explained earlier to make sure you get the direction of the slant collectively onto the armature so in other words it fits onto the commutator nice evenly and flat not the high point hitting the commutator first so we’ll just replaces carbon brush and then I’ll do the other one for you do remember out the website we have loads to articles on beko washing machines on how to change your door seal pump heaters and diagnostic articles also we have all the error codes for you out the website so just remember to go to the website if you have a problem we should be able to point you in the right direction is also a live chat on the website if you do need technical assistance help well I can here you can see the really warm down carbon brush its black on the tip this means it it is P burning against the armature this can do damage to the commutator itself on if left too long you could also possibly do damage to the circuit board but you can see here the difference between the mounting lugs original one to the left has got to Lugs next to the screw holes and the one’s to the right, the one i’m swapping over has two lugs in the middle of the holder, so just undo the clip when they arrive brush will pop out as I said earlier to make sure all that they slide in and out the holder freely you can see the difference in ware length and again the mounting lugs on the original are side by side Andy other ones are in the middle of the brush holder so we’ll just what the casings over on these, and then fit them now while i’m fitting the new carbon brush i’ll just make you aware that you want to inspect the commutator for any raised lugs after, you should do it really before fitting the new brushes, but once you’ve got the new brushes fitted do have a check around the commutator and make sure that there is no burred edges because the one carbon was badly burnt can cause hot spots on the segments in the commutator and burn the edges of them so I will explain you a technique for cleaning these up in a second disconnect the wires up first While I’m doing this, if you ever need to test the motor outside of the parametres of the washing machine, in other words making a test rig there is a article on this at the website, but you do need to be electrically minded to understand how the fields work so I’m just checking the commutator, now this is a commutator stick that we use in the trade, and its basically sand paper with rubber mixed and we just rested against the commutator while rotating and it basically just cleans up the commutator for fitting new bushes but I’m explaining you you can use a peace of wet and dry sandpaper I would use no coarser than 800 so in other words, 800 to 1200 is fantastic I wouldn’t use anything courser than 800 for this job as its too abrasive and will damage the armature, so just a piece of wet and dry does a nice job on it and make sure you did evenly. Now we’ll just fit the motor and then we’ll put it on test so again, just from underneath put the motor onto the Lugs make sure you get the front and the back on and then do up the bolts, while I’m doing this, as I said earlier, please remember to subscribe to our website whether it be on Facebook or website Google+, as that’s what keeps us going and able to make these free articles for you, and again, if you do find this article helpful you can always click on the Donate button which is Buy Paul a Beer, buy me a beer, now when fitting the motor cable do remember to get yourself a cable tie and actually put the wiring harness back on through here as this will stop any metal fatigue within the wiring, so is not moving around, doesn’t get caught on the belt or anything else just keeps it all neatly tucked away and then cut it off after, and there we go! Now when fitting a new belt this is quite important, you’ve gotta get the belt onto the motor spline first put it about half way around the pulley wheel and then be careful with your fingers but just use the larger wheel as up sort of leverage to get it on to the motor and then once you fitted it, don’t just assume its on there do make sure it lines up in the middle of the larger pulley sometimes you need to either move it forward, or backwards to make sure it lines up perfectly now we’ll plug the machine in, and there we go, i won’t wait for you too see the motor on spin, i’ll just cut the article and advance it, there you go the machine on full spin do remember to support the website by buying your parts also subscribe to our website website, Facebook and Google+ and remember, if you did save a load of money on repairs by reading this article, you can always donate by buying us a beer and remember at the website there are hundreds more tutorials on cookers, tumble dryers, fridge freezers, etc. Thanks very much indeed for reading, I hope you enjoyed the article.
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