Hi I’m Mat from washer-repair.ca. In this article I’ll be helping you diagnose dryer problems with your washer dryer. Now the machine we using for this is a Hoover washer/dryer, but the process to be very similar for most makes amp; manufacturers.
Now if you have a problem with a washer dryer that isn’t about the drying section please see our other diagnosis articles. Firstly a quick explanation of your washer dryer. If you set it to a wash rinse or spin cycle the machine behave as a standard washing machine.
However if you’ve also set the drying function the machine will continue to tumble the drum as hot air is passed through it. So I’ve just turn the machine off and I’ll take the lid off so we can see inside.
And here we have the typical components of motor and fan, heater box with the elements and thermostats or cut outs, and at the rear the machine is the condenser.
The fan pushes air through the heater box this hot air then enters the drum here.
The hot air is then passed through the washing load where it absorbs moisture. Moist air exits the back of the drum via this hose where it enters the water cooled condenser drawing out the moisture. This air then re enters the fan and then is heated again.
Now we have explain how the drying part works let’s have a look at some other common problems.
The first thing I’m going to check is the elements. This washer dryer has two heater elements one on top of the other, and a really easy way to check these is to use a multimeter. I’m just going to disconnect one of the electrical connectors so that I get an accurate reading from the element and nothing else. The reading you’re looking for is between 25 and the 150 ohms, anything outside of this your element is likely to be faulty.
With the machine set to its lowest resistance setting the reading we are getting from the elements is around 80 ohms.
So this element is fine. The next thing I’m going to check is the thermostats or cut outs. Using a multimeter if you cross the probes the reading should be very similar to that across the thermostats as you can see these thermostats are fine.
The next place a check is the fan now fluff or lint can enter the fan stopping it from spinning effectively. A very easy way to check the fan is to spin the motor cooling fan on the outside which is connected to the heater fan via a spindle. This is spinning very freely not obstructed.
Now if you have a very high resistance reading and your thermostats have these buttons on the top press those, that effectively resets that then the stance You can also check your motor using your multimeter, a reading at below 500 ohms means the motor is fine.
If you washing is taking a long time to dry but is coming out very hot it could be that water is not being fed into the condenser. Simply follow the hose from the condenser to the relevant valve and then you can check this with your multimeter. A reading of around 4,000 ohms means the valve is fine.
And those are the common problems. Spares for this make of washer/dryer and other makes and manufacturers are found on the washer-repair.ca website. Thanks for reading.