Whirlpool Washer Repair – How to Replace the Brake Rotor (Whirlpool Part # WP35-6714)

Hi, it’s Den. We’d like to explain you how to change the brake rotor on your washer, and it’s a really easy job. All we’re going to need is a 5/16th nut driver and a small flat blade screwdriver. We’ll need a pair of slip-joint pliers and an adjustable wrench and a little nut necessary. If you can find a brake tool, that will come in handy.

Let me explain you how we do it. Now, to do this repair, we will need to have the washer laying on either on its side or on its back. You’ll want to disconnect the inlet water supplies and we’ll want to unplug it and remove the drain hose.Once we’ve done that, we can then pull the washer to an area where we can work on it and lay it either on its side or on its back. Now that we have the washer laying on its side and the tub and support, our next step will be to remove the drive belt. Just roll it off the pulleys and set it aside.

Then next, we need to take the drive pulley off the bottom. We’ll start by taking the dust cap off, just squeeze it and pull away from the hub of the pulley. Then you’ll see a large E-ring, and we’ll need to pry that off. There would be a large flat washer, we’ll remove that.We want to take note of the disassembly process for this pulley because there are a series of washers and bearings in here that we’ll need to make sure that we have them in the right order when we put them back.

There’s also two different styles.
This is a newer version. If you have the previous version of this, there’ll be some parts that look a little bit different. NextWe’re going to pull the pulley completely off of the shaft.

There’s a little cam that sits in the middle, and that will come with it. The newer version has a thrust bearing with a plastic bushing on the top of it.That comes off next. Now, our next step will be to remove the brake drum from the bottom and it’s held in place with six 5/16th hex head screws, and if you’re lucky enough to have access to a brake removal tool, that’s how it goes pretty easy.

The brake tool uses a horseshoe type pin that will fit over a little groove in the shaft. We push it on there far enough that that will line up. We’ll lock it onto the shaft, then we’ll just tighten that nut that will compress the brake spring, and then we can use our 5/16th nut driver to remove the six retaining screws.If all the screws removed, we can then lift up cover off. We’ll set that aside.

Then we’ll slowly release the tension on that spring. Once the tension has been released, we can pull the pin over that tool and slide it off, and then just pull the brake rotor off the spline of the transmission.
That’s the spring that we’re compressing.

At this point, we can discard the old brake rotor. Next, we’ll want to make sure that we have lots of lubrication on these splines on the bottom of that transmission, make sure that it will slide freely.Set the spring over hub of the brake rotor. Make sure the splines are lined up.

We’ll fit the tool back onto the transmission shaft, and then we’re going to tighten that up. If you don’t have this tool, your next step would be to take the brake drum, slide it on, line up three of the longer screws, and slowly start turning them in a few turns at a time until we’ve compressed it far enough that you can quickly short screws back in. Once we’ve compressed that spring enough, the retaining screws back in. Once we have all the screws threaded in, we can tighten them all securely, and then we can remove the brake tool.If you don’t have that brake tool, there is another method to remove that brake drum. We’ll simply remove three of these screws in a triangular shape and then replace them with a longer screw.

These ones are about an inch long so if you found a screw with the same thread which is a #8 screw and 24 threads to the inch, you found one about two inches long, put the longer screws in, remove the other three short ones, and then slowly remove the three longer ones, and that will allow you to pull that brake from far enough back that the spring tension will have been released, then you can lift it off of there.The screws are #10, 24 thread per inch screw. We’re going to put a longer one in each of these three holes. With the longer screws in place, we can then take the remainder of the three short screws out, and then we’ll loosen off the three long ones and we’ll just do a couple of turns on each one in rotation. Now, that we’ve removed the short screws, we’ll start by releasing these longer ones just a few turns at a time.What we want to make sure that we keep the brake drum itself up high enough that it will come out through this opening, and sometimes that may mean leaning the washer on the opposite side because there may be some inconsistencies in the tension of the drum springs.

Once we’ve got the screws out far enough, if you feel no more tension on the brake drum, we can just remove them completely. Then once we’ve removed all three of those screws, just let the brake come off, slide the old rotor off the shaft. also two different styles
It’s the spring we were compressing. Before we install the new brake rotor, I want to make sure that we have enough lubrication on these splines on that transmission shaft, and then it will slide freely up and down, and if not, just add a little bit of EP2 grease just enough to allow free movement.Set spring over the hub and clean the inside of the brake drum.

pump     and motor pulleys, and

Remove any brake dust that may be there.

Then once we’ve ensured that it comes clean and dry, we position it over the brake rotor and then line up three long screws again. Then we’ll start by just getting some even tension on all three of the screws and try to keep the brake drum parallel with the rotor. Once we’ve achieved that, we just start turning each of them a couple of turns at a time until we get it compressed.Once we’ve tightened those long screws so that the brake drum is fully seated, we’ll next put the short screws in the three empty spaces.
Then tighten those three short screws completely, and then we’ll remove the three long ones.

With all the long screws removed, we can then put the remaining short ones back in, and make sure they’re tightened securely.With all the screws nice and secure, we’ll reassemble the thrust bearing and set into the opening in the rotor. Pull it on top of it. Insert the cam into the pulley, keeping this wind portion between these two stops and the large open. Take the flat blade screwdriver and locate the little groove in that transmission shaft, just pry it out so that the shaft will drop down farther.

Position the flat washer over the shaft, and again, we’ll pull the shaft out, and we need to set that E-ring into that groove.We’ll squeeze it into place with our pliers, and then just carefully press that E-ring under the shaft. Make sure it’s properly engaged in that little groove, then put our dust cap back on, and our drive belt.
Fit it over both the pump and motor pulleys, and then rotate it onto the large drive pulley.

Now that we have the washer back in place, we can reconnect the inlet fill hoses as well as the drain hose. We can plug it in and our repair is complete.